White Wine by Cave Dog from Sonoma County, California. The 2016 Godello is the best version yet of this variety from Baillie’s Birdland Vineyard. It features the yellow plum, honey note, and waxy texture native to the variety, a little richer than the Albari o, but still with a lively mouthfeel that keeps it fresh. Fermentation and aging on the lees in neutral white barrels has added complexity, though blocking the malo-lactic keeps the primary fruit front and center. Some people have suggested Godello as an alternative to Chardonnay, but Cave Dog thinks that’s only a distant parallel; it is a unique variety, and has multiple expressions in Spain and Portugal. In Sonoma Valley, it is challenging in the vineyard, but its character has now been consistent over the last five years. A great pairing with fish, white pastas, and with my wife’s marvelous pan-roasted chicken.